El Salvador from a Bird's-Eye View - La Presse, Canada
For better or for worse, El Salvador's gigantic prison has made headlines in recent times. The smallest country in Central America, however, has much more to offer. Its waves attract internationally renowned surfers, its landscape—shaped by countless volcanoes—contains an incredible diversity of birds, and its welcoming inhabitants are working to restore their country's image.
Pierre Gingras
7/30/20266 min read
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For better or for worse, El Salvador's gigantic prison has made headlines in recent times. The smallest country in Central America, however, has much more to offer. Its waves attract internationally renowned surfers, its landscape—shaped by countless volcanoes—contains an incredible diversity of birds, and its welcoming inhabitants are working to restore their country's image.
Published October 3, 2025
"Look to the right—a little blue heron. And there, very close, a white ibis. Look, on the branch just above the water, a pygmy kingfisher. A real jewel! Ah, and a tricolored heron," our guide Rodolfo points out enthusiastically.
We are in the heart of the Barra de Santiago mangrove, in January, west of the capital, San Salvador. The small boat moves slowly across the water through an inextricable mass of mangrove roots. A mysterious atmosphere. Birds appear from everywhere, often close to us, except for the parrots, always high in the branches, elusive. A little farther away, on the surface of the water, an impassive crocodile.
PIERRE GINGRAS
Special contributor
A stiff neck and a racing heart make themselves felt at the end of this morning of uninterrupted excitement.
Three more excursions with Rodolfo are planned over the coming days to discover the country while observing some of its feathered beauties.
Leaving the mangrove, we walk toward immense sandbars where swimming is inviting. Hundreds of birds are resting there: delicate American avocets, oystercatchers, magnificent black skimmers, and several species of terns.
Back to the dock. A two-hour drive awaits us to reach the capital, giving us time to get better acquainted with Rodolfo Walsh, 60, a native of the country and both a tour guide and birding guide. He speaks English perfectly and occasionally adds a few words of French.
The country also experienced a tourism boom in 2024 and has just begun construction of a new international airport to serve the surfing beaches along the eastern coast.
Frequently during our stay, Salvadorans spontaneously express how pleased they are to welcome us to their country, concerned about the image it projects.
In addition to birds, Rodolfo introduces his clients to the many different faces of El Salvador.
"Birds are active mainly before sunrise, around 6 a.m., and gradually disappear between 9 and 10 a.m. So there is no shortage of time to appreciate the landscapes, beautiful villages, or Mayan ruins."
"People now come to our country to discover a safe El Salvador, whereas not so long ago it was one of the most violent countries in the world."
— Rodolfo Walsh, tour and birding guide
La Ruta de las Flores / The Route of Flowers
An unmissable tourist route in El Salvador, the Ruta de las Flores extends for about forty kilometers, where seven picturesque villages with colorful murals await you.
The spectacular scenery will inevitably lead you to stop along the way for moments of contemplation. With Rodolfo, the day begins early in the morning with a visit to Laguna Verde, a pond in the crater of a small off-the-beaten-path volcano and an important birdwatching site.
According to legend, a meteorite fell into the middle of the lake, causing an immense fountain to burst upward for a brief moment.
After the walk, it is time for lunch at El Jardín de Celeste, a well-known and affordable restaurant set in a lush garden where birds are everywhere.
The day continues in the charming village of Ataco, or in Apaneca, where you can sample a pupusa, the country's national dish.
Izalco Volcano as seen from Cerro Verde Volcano Park in El Salvador. The country has around twenty volcanoes, several of them active. Izalco's last eruption occurred in 1966 and lasted 15 days.
The Volcano Park
Whether you are a bird enthusiast or not, Cerro Verde National Park, located about an hour's drive from the capital, is a must-see. Several hiking trails and three volcanoes await visitors.
The most impressive is the cone-shaped Izalco, which seems to be within arm's reach. Formed in 1770 and considered the country's youngest volcano, it remained active for more than 200 years, serving as a natural lighthouse for ships.
A hotel was even built directly opposite the volcano so guests could admire the fiery crater. However, once construction was completed, the volcano became dormant, leading to the hotel's abandonment.
Since then, it has been restored and now includes a restaurant offering a breathtaking view of Izalco. Who knows whether its fumaroles might turn into flowing lava during your visit?
San Salvador and its imposing cathedral
A City and Its Green Lung
The metropolitan region of San Salvador has around two million inhabitants, representing one-third of the country's population.
In this dynamic city, it is easy to get around inexpensively by taxi, particularly with Uber.
In the bustling historic center, visitors can tour the imposing cathedral, the National Theatre, the large public market, and the Presidential Palace, where guided tours are even offered in French.
Our guide explains, among other things, that a falcon comes every day around 5:00 p.m. to perch atop one of the large conifer trees in the palace courtyard, undoubtedly to keep watch over the plump pigeons in the surrounding area.
The Monument to the Revolution stands opposite the Museum of Art of El Salvador and just a few blocks from the Dr. David J. Guzmán National Museum of Anthropology, in the tourist district of San Benito.
Farther from the city center, the National Handicrafts Market is worth the visit despite its modest size. Each stall represents one region of the country.
Hotels and restaurants are concentrated mainly in the San Benito district, which is also home to the Museum of Art and the Museum of Anthropology.
For those wishing to enjoy greenery and birds, there is no shortage of options, beginning with the Botanical Garden, as well as the expansive Bicentenario Park, the city's green lung.
Several species of motmots are found in El Salvador, but the turquoise-browed motmot is the country's national bird.
Nearby is El Espino Ecopark, a favorite destination for birdwatchers and enthusiasts of extreme mountain biking (bicycles available for rent on site), offering a magnificent view of the city.
Another must-see attraction, located about a 15-minute taxi ride from the San Benito district, is El Boquerón National Park, which overlooks the floor of a volcanic crater.
The park is very well developed, with easily accessible trails and public facilities, including a restaurant, cafés, and parking.
You will probably see the motmot (the country's national bird) or perhaps a rose-breasted grosbeak, possibly the very same bird you spotted last summer at your backyard feeder.
Visit Rodolfo Walsh's website www.birdwatchingtourselsalvador.com
GOOD TO KNOW
The tourist season coincides with the dry season, from early October through the end of April.
Air Transat and Avianca offer direct flights:
Air Transat: from September through the end of April.
Avianca: year-round.
The U.S. dollar is the country's currency.
The cost of a meal at a good restaurant is slightly lower than in Montreal.
The main roads are well maintained.
Drunk driving: zero tolerance.